Burberry: A Legacy of Heritage, Design, and Innovation
Posted by ANDY CONWAY
Burberry: A Legacy of Heritage, Design, and Innovation
Burberry is one of the most iconic names in fashion, known worldwide for its timeless designs, elegant tailoring, and distinguished heritage. From its humble beginnings as a small outdoor wear brand in 1856, Burberry has evolved into a global luxury fashion house with a rich history of craftsmanship and innovation. Known particularly for its iconic trench coat, the brand has managed to maintain its legacy while embracing modernity through collaborations with some of the most influential designers in the fashion world.
In this blog, we will explore the heritage of Burberry, the creation of its famed trench coat, the contributions of key designers, and how Burberry has navigated the changing tides of fashion while staying true to its roots.
The Birth of Burberry: Foundation and Early Beginnings
Burberry was founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry, a young draper's apprentice who opened his first shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England. His vision was to create practical and durable outerwear for the British public, with a focus on weatherproofing. The key to his innovation lay in the development of gabardine, a breathable yet water-resistant fabric he invented in 1879. This fabric was revolutionary for the time, providing comfort and protection against the harsh English weather.
Gabardine quickly became a hallmark of Burberry's outerwear, setting the brand apart from other manufacturers in the industry. Burberry’s garments soon became a staple for explorers, adventurers, and even the British army, thanks to their functionality, durability, and quality.
The Iconic Trench Coat: A Military Legacy
No piece of clothing is as closely associated with Burberry as the trench coat. Although it has become a symbol of luxury and fashion, the trench coat has practical military origins.
The Origins of the Trench Coat
The trench coat was first developed during World War I as part of military uniforms. Burberry’s design was intended to meet the needs of soldiers in the trenches, which is why it was called the "trench coat." In 1901, the War Office approached Burberry to create a more functional and durable coat for British officers serving in the war. Burberry’s response was the "Tielocken" coat, which featured a double-breasted design, epaulettes, storm flaps, and deep pockets, all key components that remain central to the design of the modern trench coat.
Burberry’s use of gabardine fabric made the trench coat both waterproof and breathable, a necessity for soldiers in the damp, muddy conditions of the trenches. The coat’s practical design elements, such as the adjustable cuffs, belted waist, and durable construction, made it a versatile piece for both the military and civilian life.
The Trench Coat's Rise to Iconic Status
After the war, Burberry's trench coat was embraced by civilians, particularly in the 1920s and 1930s, as soldiers returned home and the trench coat's functional style became associated with sophistication and elegance. Its rise to fashion status was cemented in popular culture, particularly through Hollywood films where it was worn by famous actors like Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (1942). The association with classic style and elegance only added to the allure of the trench coat.
As a symbol of both military practicality and high-class sophistication, the trench coat became a hallmark of Burberry’s reputation for timeless design and craftsmanship. Today, it remains an enduring symbol of the brand’s heritage, with modern updates keeping it as relevant as ever.
Burberry’s Design Aesthetic: From Heritage to Innovation
While the trench coat is the most famous of Burberry's designs, the brand's influence in fashion goes far beyond this one piece. Burberry is known for its refined, understated aesthetic, which combines traditional British tailoring with contemporary elements. Throughout the years, the brand has evolved, embracing the intersection of heritage and innovation to appeal to both traditionalists and modern fashion lovers.
The Burberry Check: A Trademark of Luxury
One of Burberry’s most instantly recognizable design elements is its signature check pattern. The now-iconic Burberry check—often called the “Nova check”—was introduced in 1924 and was initially used as a lining for Burberry’s trench coats. However, by the 1960s, the check had become an integral part of the brand’s identity, appearing on scarves, bags, and a variety of other products.
The check pattern combines camel, red, black, and white in a subtle, classic plaid design. It’s become synonymous with British luxury and sophistication. Over time, the check has undergone various reimaginings, with new iterations being introduced to reflect changing tastes. Yet, the original check remains a cornerstone of Burberry’s brand, contributing to its classic, easily identifiable look.
Traditional British Tailoring Meets Modern Design
Burberry’s ability to balance tradition with modernity has been key to its success in both the luxury and ready-to-wear markets. The brand’s rich history in British tailoring—particularly its impeccable craftsmanship in outerwear—continues to inform its collections. However, over the years, Burberry has also embraced more contemporary design elements to appeal to a younger, more fashion-forward clientele.
Under the direction of various creative directors, the brand has evolved from its heritage-focused roots to embrace more experimental and trend-conscious designs. Burberry has introduced a range of products, from bold, streetwear-inspired collections to luxurious ready-to-wear lines.
Burberry’s Designers: Key Figures in the Brand's Evolution
The direction of Burberry’s design has been shaped by several key figures throughout its history. These designers have not only upheld the brand's heritage but also introduced new ideas that have helped Burberry remain relevant to a global, fashion-conscious audience.
Christopher Bailey: Modernizing Burberry’s Heritage (2001-2018)
Christopher Bailey is perhaps the most significant designer in Burberry’s recent history. Serving as the brand’s Chief Creative Officer from 2001 to 2018, Bailey was instrumental in modernizing Burberry while staying true to its British roots. His tenure marked a period of immense transformation for the brand, both in terms of design and marketing.
One of Bailey's most significant contributions was his embrace of digital innovation, making Burberry one of the first luxury brands to embrace online streaming of fashion shows. He also introduced the "Burberry Prorsum" line, which became synonymous with high-fashion runway collections.
Bailey’s design philosophy revolved around making Burberry’s heritage feel modern and inclusive. He played a critical role in bringing youthful energy to the brand, often incorporating contemporary fabrics and cuts while still honouring the brand's classic tailoring and iconic outerwear.
Riccardo Tisci: A New Era of Burberry (2018-Present)
In 2018, Burberry appointed Riccardo Tisci as Chief Creative Officer, marking a new chapter for the brand. Tisci, known for his work at Givenchy, brought a fresh, boundary-pushing approach to Burberry. His collections have incorporated darker tones, streetwear-inspired elements, and bold graphic designs—drawing upon his love for Gothic and punk influences.
Under Tisci’s leadership, Burberry has emphasised diversity and inclusivity, introducing gender-fluid collections and revisiting the Burberry check with a more modern interpretation. Tisci has also worked to elevate Burberry’s connection with British culture, referencing London’s street style and youth culture, while maintaining the classic elements that have always defined the brand.
Burberry’s Embrace of Sustainability and Ethical Practices
Along with embracing modern design aesthetics, Burberry has made significant strides in sustainability. Under Bailey and later Tisci, the brand has committed to making fashion that is not only stylish but also ethical. Burberry became the first major fashion house to commit to zero waste by 2020 and has taken steps to improve its supply chain, using more sustainable materials and reducing its carbon footprint.
Burberry Today: A Global Icon
Burberry’s transformation over the years—from a practical outfitter for soldiers to a global luxury brand—has cemented its place as one of the most influential fashion houses in the world. Today, Burberry is synonymous with British luxury, innovative design, and sustainability.
Burberry has for a long time been a brand that I have admired, steeped in tradition with iconic looks, I personally can't wait to see what the future holds for the brand.
- Andy
